Alta Climbing Gilbert requires an extreme combination of agility, fitness and knowledge. It is a sport that rewards self-challenge over competition, and teaches a profound respect for the environment.
Indoor routes present few distractions, but outdoors a climber must contend with weather, ground conditions, bugs and food. A belayer must also stay attentive, as a belay error can cause the climber to fall.
Bouldering is a fun, challenging way to work up a sweat and get a great workout without the need for ropes. It involves climbing small rocks, usually with the help of a spotter. Boulderers use a pair of shoes, a chalk bag and crash pads to protect themselves from injury. It is the most physically demanding of all climbing disciplines. Bouldering is a great way to build strength and improve technique before transitioning to lead climbing.
In addition to its physical challenge, bouldering is a mental puzzle that engages the brain. The unique combination of muscle and mind makes it a highly addictive sport. Boulderers gather at bouldering parks and gyms to share tips, cheer each other on and celebrate successes. This community is a big draw for many new climbers.
As climbs become more difficult, they are often broken down into smaller sections and referred to as “problems.” Each problem has its own solution that requires a mix of body movement, hand dexterity and core strength. Often, a problem has a few key moves that are referred to as the crux. Getting through these moves can be a challenge for even the most talented and experienced climbers.
Boulderers are also notorious for creating their own jargon. Some terms are specific to the sport, such as:
Others are more general and may be used in other sports or activities. For example, “thumbcatch” is a technique for making a pinch with the thumb to gain a hold. Other common terms include:
Lead Climbing
Unlike indoor climbing, lead climbing takes place outdoors at a crag. The lead climber clips their rope into pieces of protection as they ascend a route, while the second person in the climbing pair, known as the belayer, stays on the ground and is responsible for taking in any fall that might happen. This is a much more complicated process than top-roping and requires a greater level of communication/attention between climber and belayer, as well as additional equipment (for example, a belay device).
The lead climber must also learn to clip quickly and correctly, as errors can result in the leader falling significantly further than they were above their last piece of protection. This increased risk and the fact that a belayer must catch a fall means that learning to lead is usually reserved for experienced rock climbers who are ready to progress to outdoor climbing.
Aside from the technical aspects of being a lead climber, there are a number of psychological factors to consider when learning to lead. Firstly, many people will have a fear of falling. This is perfectly normal and can be overcome through practice. In addition, being a lead climber increases the amount of time you spend hanging above the ground which can be psychologically challenging for some people.
Finally, learning to belay is a significant undertaking that takes a considerable amount of time to master. This is partly because the belay position is a more dynamic one than that used for top-roping, and therefore requires more attention. There are many online resources for learning to belay but it is important to find a safe, supportive environment in which to learn and build your confidence.
Once a climber has mastered the basics of being a lead climber, it is time to get out on the rock. The transition from indoor to outdoor climbing can be intimidating and it is worth taking the time to develop your skills outdoors, especially as outdoor routes tend to be longer and require more gear than those found in a gym. To do this, it is best to take a course with an experienced instructor who can teach you how to set up a route, manage belay and handle the extra challenges of an outdoor setting such as the weather, terrain and extra hazards like falling debris.
Sport Climbing
A relatively new addition to the Olympic games, sport climbing has exploded in popularity and demand for both participants and spectators. Sport climbing requires incredible strength – using about 650 muscles across the body, grabbing on to small holds, sometimes only big enough for a fingertip – and mental dexterity. When competing, athletes are not allowed to see the wall before they climb, forcing them to make quick decisions on the fly, often relying on previous experience or a “beta” from a fellow competitor.
Athletes are tied to a rope (through their harness) and clipped into quickdraws (fancy carabiners that allow the rope to move freely) along the route for safety reasons. There is also a person on the ground, a belayer, to keep them secure and help them move up the wall, making it possible for them to reach higher and faster. The winner is declared based on the fastest time to scale a route, with no re-climbs.
In the lead event, athletes compete by trying to reach as high as they can on a 12m-high wall within six minutes, and are awarded points based on how fast they can get to the top and finish clipping the last quickdraw (and not falling). They are not allowed to use a figure-8 knot to attach themselves to the end of the rope, so they must use dynamic movements to gain height quickly.
In order to win a lead competition, athletes must be very familiar with the terrain on which they will be climbing. They must know what type of holds to expect, including sidepulls, crimps, and smears. Athletes will also need to be able to predict how much friction will be on the surface of the rock, which is important for the speed of their run. The best climbers can anticipate these variables and find ways to reduce the amount of friction they have to overcome by taking more steps or lowering their weight. They will need to communicate with their belayers well, too – for example, if they want the rope to be tightened, they must say “take.” If they want it loosened, they must say “lower.” Having clear communication is especially important at the end of a climb, when the belayer must lower the athlete quickly and with precision.
Big Wall Climbing
A big wall is a steep, nearly vertical rock face that is multi-pitch, aided climb, and generally takes multiple days to ascend. It requires the use of a portaledge and some form of mechanical advantage, as well as climbing skills that can cope with heinous belay positions, slings, and jumaring on marginal gear. Traditionally, only very experienced and hardened multipitch climbers would consider undertaking big-wall routes. However, more and more big-wall routes are being climbed by free climbers who don’t necessarily require the use of a portaledge.
Many different definitions of big wall climbing exist, and it’s often unclear exactly what constitutes a big wall. Some climbers argue that a big wall is any steep, long multipitch route. Others say that a big wall must have two or more days to complete, and must be done with the use of artificial aid.
Some people point out that it’s important to avoid using superlatives when talking about big-wall climbing. John Middendorf of ExplorersWeb pointed out that while it is tempting to talk about the highest, hardest, longest, etc., it is better to focus on the enjoyment of climbing the wall itself, rather than a race for the biggest or best routes.
Regardless of the definition of a big wall, all climbers agree that it is a type of climbing that can be very challenging, and that it’s an amazing experience to be on the side of a large rock face with nothing but cliff below you. However, it is a climbing that is also very dangerous, and one that should only be attempted with the appropriate knowledge, equipment, and skill.
Before attempting a big-wall climb, it is essential to spend time establishing a solid base of hard, multipitch routes at your local crags. This will help you to learn the necessary skills, and gain a feel for how your body responds to the challenge of a big wall. It is also important to practice the art of jumaring, and to develop a keen awareness of the interrelationship between the climber, the rope, and the rock. Finally, it is imperative to be able to handle the logistical challenges of a big-wall climb, including belay changeovers, hauling, and cleaning gear.
